Commonly Worn at Islamic Events in Indonesia, Where Does the Koko Shirt Originally Come From?

Kapanlagi.com - The koko shirt, often regarded as a symbol of Islam in Indonesia, has an interesting story behind its existence. This attire has become the primary choice for Muslim men, especially when performing religious duties, attending religious events, or celebrating holidays. With its simple, modest, and comfortable design, the koko shirt has become an identity closely associated with Muslim men in the homeland.

However, did you know that the koko shirt actually does not originate from Arab or Middle Eastern culture? In its history, this garment was born from the clothing traditions of the Chinese community. Through a rich process of cultural acculturation, the koko shirt has transformed into an inseparable part of the lives of Indonesian Muslim society.

M. Quraish Shihab, in his book "Misunderstood Islam", reveals that the koko shirt we know today is a modification of the Chinese men's clothing that initially had no collar. Over time, this shirt underwent changes in meaning and function, making it a symbol rich in history and identity.

1. The Origin of the Name and Form of the Koko Shirt

The origin of the term "koko shirt" actually holds an interesting story that connects Indonesian and Chinese cultures. Known as attire initially worn by "engkoh-engkoh"—a familiar term for Chinese men—this shirt was originally called "tui-khim" in the Hokkien dialect, featuring a five-button shirt design without a collar paired with loose trousers.

Over time, the Betawi community began to adopt this style into their daily lives, and the koko shirt became a favorite choice among the Muslim community due to its closed and modest design. Historian JJ Rizal explains that the name "koko shirt" was born from a pronunciation transformation from "baju engkoh-engkoh".

Meanwhile, Chinese cultural observer David Kwa notes that the tui-khim shirt remained popular among Chinese men until the early 20th century, although its usage began to decline after the fall of the Cheng Dynasty. Ironically, during that time, this shirt found a new place in the hearts of the Indonesian Muslim community.

2. The Arrival of Chinese Clothing in the Muslim Community

When the Chinese community began to settle in Batavia and various parts of the archipelago for trade, they brought with them an invaluable cultural heritage, including traditional attire such as tui-khim and pangsi pants. Over time, the Betawi people also started wearing these clothes, which G.J. Nawi in his book Maen Pukulan Pencak Silat Khas Betawi referred to as "baju sadariah," which can be considered the precursor to the baju koko that we know today.

Initially worn only for daily activities, this clothing was gradually adopted by Islamic religious figures due to its suitability with the Muslim dress code—covering the aurat and being unobtrusive, making it very appropriate for worship and study sessions.

Emha Ainun Nadjib in his book Hidup Itu Harus Pintar Ngegas Ngerem adds that the kiai always wear baju koko, which actually originates from Chinese clothing but has since been acknowledged by the ustaz and nicknamed baju takwa. Since then, baju koko has become a strong symbol of religious identity among Muslims in Indonesia.

3. Koko Shirt as an Identity of Islam

Although it does not originate from Islamic teachings or Arab culture, the koko shirt has now become an inseparable symbol of Islam in Indonesia. This transformation began with the kiai and santri who proudly wore the shirt in various religious activities, encouraging the community to follow their example.

Over time, the koko shirt has not only become a daily choice but also a mandatory attire for sacred moments such as Id prayers, weddings, and other religious events, solidifying its position as an identity of men's Muslim clothing.

Interestingly, amidst the waves of modernization, the koko shirt is now worn by various layers of society, including those who hold anti-Chinese views, even though the history of this shirt actually stems from a culture that was once considered foreign.

4. Commercial Development of Koko Shirts in Indonesia

With the increasing market demand, the koko shirt has now transformed into one of the stars in the profitable fashion world. The peak of enthusiasm occurs before Ramadan and Idulfitri, when Muslims flock to find new clothes to celebrate those special moments.

The advantages of lightweight materials and affordable prices make the koko shirt easy to produce in bulk, while its designs have also transformed from classic collarless styles to modern models rich in embroidery variations, batik motifs, and even premium linen materials.

With prices that are accessible to various layers of society, it is not surprising that the koko shirt continues to endure and innovate, following the dynamics of men's Muslim fashion trends in Indonesia.

5. FAQ

Is the koko shirt of Arab origin?

No, the koko shirt originates from Chinese culture, not from Arab.

Why is it called a koko shirt?

Because it was originally called “baju engkoh-engkoh” which was then shortened to “baju koko”.

Who was the first to wear the koko shirt among Muslims?

Religious figures such as kiai and santri were the first to adopt it.

Is wearing a koko shirt mandatory for prayer?

It is not mandatory, but the koko shirt meets the requirements of modesty for prayer.

Do Chinese men still wear the koko shirt?

Currently, it is rare, as the Chinese community has shifted to modern fashion styles.

(kpl/rmt)