The Secret of Dayang Sumbi's Costume Can 'Speak' on Stage

Kapanlagi.com - How do you make the audience immediately recognize the character of Dayang Sumbi, even before she speaks? For designer Liliana Lim, the answer is very simple: through the costume. At the Sabang Merauke 2026 event, Dayang Sumbi's outfit is designed to tell her character's story as soon as she appears on stage.

For Liliana, the outfit is not just an accessory to the appearance. The costume is the first element that introduces the character to the audience, long before the first dialogue is spoken. That's why this design work is taken seriously so that Dayang Sumbi can be immediately "read" as soon as she appears in the Indonesia Arena.

1. Not Just Beautiful, But Also Charismatic

Dayang Sumbi has long been known as a beautiful and graceful woman. But Liliana doesn't want that beauty to be translated into just a soft appearance. She actually wants the charismatic side of this character to come out, so that Dayang Sumbi still looks strong and has a big "aura" on stage.

From there, the silhouette of the costume began to be shaped. Liliana chose feminine yet firm lines that could elegantly highlight the body shape. One of her mainstays is drapery, a technique of arranging fabric to create beautiful folds and drapes.

2. Moulage Technique: Creating Costumes Directly on the Body

Now, this is what makes it interesting: the drapery of Dayang Sumbi's costume is done using the moulage technique. Unlike the usual sewing process that starts from a pattern on paper, this technique actually shapes the fabric directly on the body or mannequin. The fabric is folded, pulled, and arranged slowly until the right silhouette is found.

Because it is worked directly following the shape of the body, moulage gives designers the opportunity to see how the fabric falls and moves in real-time. The process feels more spontaneous, but still requires extra precision. Just a slight change in the direction of the folds can result in a completely different character.

This technique is perfect for translating the feminine and graceful side of Dayang Sumbi. The lines of the drapery create a soft impression, while the overall shape of the costume remains strong so that its charisma does not fade even when viewed from a distance.

3. The Meaningful Combination of Gold and Brown Colors

The story of the character Dayang Sumbi is also "told" through color choices. Liliana chose a combination of gold and brown for this costume. The gold color is used to represent nobility, while also giving a special impression of the character Dayang Sumbi.

Meanwhile, the brown color is present through the typical batik motifs of West Java, the region that serves as the original backdrop of the Dayang Sumbi story. This combination makes the costume not only visually beautiful but also creates a thread connecting the character, the origin of the story, and the message that wants to be conveyed through each detail.

4. The Serious Challenges of Stage Costumes

Unlike everyday clothing, stage costumes have their own challenges. The details must still be readable from the back row of the audience, the silhouette must be clear amidst the onslaught of lighting and stage visuals, but the performer must also remain comfortable to move.

Because of this, choices of drapery, lines of clothing, and color composition cannot work independently. Everything must work together to achieve the best result on stage.

Through Liliana Lim's design, the character Dayang Sumbi is not only introduced through dialogue or scenes. Elegance, beauty, and charisma have already "spoken" through the silhouette of the costume, the fall of the fabric, and the colors worn. So when Dayang Sumbi appears in the Sabang Merauke Performance - Only Indonesia Has: "The Tale of Srikandi Nusantara", her costume is not just an outfit worn, but has become part of the story itself.

(kpl/gtr)